The New York Times’s Eric Asimov wrote last week that in his wine-drinking circles, “it’s become all too common to hear people say, ‘I almost never drink Cabernet Sauvignon.’”

He admits that seems “bizarre,” but adds, “it’s also understandable,” that people’s “tastes and perceptions have evolved,” and that the “centralized power of the wine publications that adored Cabernet and dominated criticism has been diffused.”

Didn’t people love Cabernet before wine publications? Don’t they love it still? True, as he says, styles come and go. But is Cabernet Sauvignon truly out of style? And if so, how can it still be the most popular red wine consumed? In other words, how can something so popular be unpopular?

Figures show that Cabernet Sauvignon represents about 25% of total wine consumption in the United States, up from 15% in 2000, making it the most consumed of all red wines, and the second-most consumed wine after Chardonnay.

Asimov acknowledges that Cab is the best-selling red varietal wine in the United States (WSWA’s SipSource), but claims that most of the popularity resides with an older demographic and less-desirable bottles under $10.

One commenter replied to these assertions, “Mr. Asimov, there are many good, drinkable, readily available Cabernets in the $25 to $40 price range.”

Sonoma County is a treasure trove of these “readily available Cabernets” at a wide range of price points, and exactly the opposite of so-so bottles under $10.

In Sonoma County, Cabernet Sauvignon remains the second-most-grown red grape at 12,431 acres, edged out just slightly by Pinot Noir. Only Napa and San Luis Obispo counties grow more Cabernet than Sonoma County, with California Cabernet accounting for 16% of total wine grapes grown.

Rodney Strong makes a Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon for $22. It has an Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon for $35 and a Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon for $40, in addition to more expensive vineyard-designates. Hobo Wine Co. makes the Camp North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon (mentioned by Asimov) for $21 that sources grapes from Dry Creek Valley and Sonoma Valley. While it’s better known for Zinfandel, Dry Creek Vineyard has a Dry Creek Valley Cab for $36.

Alexander Valley Vineyards sells a Cabernet Sauvignon for $28. The La Crema Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon is $35. Gundlach-Bundschu’s Rhinefarm Cab from Sonoma Valley is $55.

Other great Sonoma County Cab values can be found at Olema, Bedrock, Alma Fria, as well as from Cline Cellars, which makes an Alexander Valley Cab for $40.

At higher price points are Silver Oak, Aperture, Jordan, Fat Dragon, Passalacqua, Calluna, Mauritson and Overshine all with exceptional Cabs under $100. Same with Robert Young Estate, Trione and J. Rickards. In Knights Valley, Ehret Family is another producer with a Cab under $100; Ross Ranch has one too.

Knights Bridge clocks in at a little higher price points with its great estate Cabs. Peter Michael and Morlet Family Vineyards produce world-renowned Knights Valley Cabernets. And then there’s Verite.

But the best comment in reply to Asimov’s column is the one from a reader that said, “To me, great winegrowers making great wine will always matter more than whatever happens to be fashionable at the moment.”

It’s not clear if Cabernet Sauvignon is truly unfashionable, but we can all agree, great winegrowers making great wine will always matter more.