By Virginie Boone

A Mexican day of remembrance, Día de Los Muertos, or Day of the Dead is a celebration that involves the souls of the deceased, who are welcomed back to the world of the living to enjoy food, drink and celebration. It lasts from October 31 to November 2, with the first two days of November specifically considered All Souls Day or Day of the Dead.

The tradition is traced back to Spanish and Mesoamerican cultures, and to the Aztecs of central Mexico, who believed the universe was cyclical and saw death as an ongoing part of life.

Important elements in the annual ritual include leaving food, flowers (especially marigolds), candles in the shape of a cross and photos of the deceased on loved ones’ graves or building altars at home for these offerings, known as ofrendas, that both honor the deceased and welcome spirits back to the world of the living.

The offerings are meant to always include the four elements of earth, wind, fire and water, with water often left in a pitcher for the spirits to quench their thirst. Paper banners represent the wind. Earth is usually symbolized with food, particularly bread.

Elements of the celebration include a hot masa-based drink made from dark chocolate, cinnamon and vanilla called atole, whimsically decorated sugar candy in the shape of skulls (calavera de azúcar), and pan de muerte, a sweet baked bread decorated with crossbones that serves as an offering.

Additionally, Monarch butterflies are believed to hold the spirits of the dead since they typically arrive in Mexico for the winter at the beginning of November.

In anticipation of this wonderful ritual, let’s take a moment to reflect on a number of members of our community who have recently departed.

Howard Backen – based originally in the Napa Valley, the Hall-of-Fame Wine Country architect left his mark in Sonoma County, too, imprinting his regenerative design aesthetic intended to unite land, body and building – a modern farmhouse vibe – to such places as Ram’s Gate Winery in Carneros and Knight’s Bridge Winery (and residence) in Knights Valley.

Walter Byck – the physician founder of Paradise Ridge Winery with his late wife, Marijke, Byck passed away at the age of 92, after spending some 30 years building the oasis that would become this Santa Rosa mountainside winery and showcase for nature and art, intended originally as a family retreat. Two of Byck’s children continue to run the winery today.

John A. “Mac” McQuown – a visionary and pioneering entrepreneur who grew up on a farm in Illinois, McQuown studied engineering and business and became a data analysis genius. In the early 1970s he helped create Chalone Wine Group, launching such Sonoma County wineries as Carmenet. Moving permanently to Sonoma County in 1995, he also established Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards and Winery, in addition to a 16-acre organic farm and restaurant in the town of Sonoma. Among his many accomplishments was developing his own microgrid to reuse water, generate clean electricity through solar and create fuel for zero-emission vehicles. In 2012 he bought a 160-acre property on Moon Mountain with 12 acres of grapes, where the winery continues.

John McReynolds – an award-winning chef and cookbook author, McReynolds was the original chef and co-owner of Café LaHaye in Sonoma, which highlighted local ingredients and seasons to great critical acclaim. He later wrote the “Stone Edge Farm Cookbook” and other titles while serving as executive chef and culinary director for Mac McQuown at Stone Edge Farm.

Tom Reed – living nearly to 90 years old, Reed was one of the original co-founders of Clos du Bois in Geyserville with his friend Frank Woods. He was also one of the chairs of Ronald Reagan’s California gubernatorial run in the 1960s. He later served as secretary of the Air Force under the Ford and Carter administrations as well as in the Reagan presidency. He lived his later years in the Alexander Valley.

Victor “Buck” Sangiacomo – one of the founding partners of Sangiacomo Family Vineyards, Buck died at the age of 92 at the end of September. Born in Sonoma, he was a farmer for eight decades, helping the family transition from pears to wine grapes and become one of Sonoma County’s best-known vineyard designates. With no descendants of his own, he helped nurture the kids in the next generation, Mike, Steve and Mia Sangiacomo, who make up the backbone of the family business today.

Elizabeth Lee Sheela – one of the co-founders of Kenwood Vineyards with her husband John, Sheela was a licensed architect who helped design the winery buildings. Her brothers Martin and Michael Lee were also partners, founding Kenwood at the site of the former Pagani Winery in 1970. By 1996 they were making 250,000 cases a year and owned 200 acres of vines.

Honor the memories of these and others this Día de los Muertos. Local celebrations will take place Friday, November 1 at La Luz Center, with community and pet altars, a live mariachi band, parade and more, as well as at the Cloverdale Citrus Fair. On Saturday, November 2 there is a Winemaker Dinner featuring authentic Oaxacan mole and Surcos wines as well as a Dia de Los Muertos evening celebration of wine and Mexican dishes at Keller Estate.